IKAT | इक्कत
A dyeing technique in which yarn is dyed using resist method (where design is made on the yarns) before even weaving takes place.
Any type of pattern is possible to be created onto the yarn and subsequently be seen woven on the fabric. Traditionally, all Ikats were woven on Handloom, but to meet the ever increasing demand Warp Ikats could be produced on Powerlooms as well. But effort put in dyeing the yarn with resist technique is same for both handloom and Powerloom Ikat fabrics.
The Photo Stories from Koyalgudem and Pochampally, Telangana
Double Ikat Handloom Fabric from Pochampally, Koyalgudem, Telangana
Marking Yarn with pencil as per given design on the graph paper.
The design layout is translated onto the yarns by marking with pencil and then tied at the marked place with rubber obtained from used tyre tubes. Tied tightly in such a way that dye must not seep inside.
But tying the yarn by different persons results in......
Working Together Does Matters: Team Work is everywhere. Both men and women are employed at various level of Ikat making.
Each one of us possess different energy levels; even during the different times of the day energy levels for a single person varies. This results in variation in tying the yarn with rubber and subsequently hand to hand variations be seen on the dyed yarn and woven fabric.
Koyalgudem, A woman engaged in tying warp weft with rubbers (For Double Ikat - Warp and Weft Ikat)
The Tied yarns are then Dyed in desired colours and dying is done the traditional way i.e. in Open baths and vessels. Either Vat, Reactive or Napthol dyes are used for dyeing.
A minimum quantity of yarn is required to be dyed so as to operate the loom efficiently, as warping has to be done for a minimum of 180 metres.
Basics: Setting up the Reeds of a Handloom. Pochampally Ikat Park
Space or Resist Dyed Weft in Shuttles for Double Ikat. Koyalgudem
@ Koyalgudem: Patterned Yarn clamped on Loom. Warp waiting for the weft to be filled to be woven into Ikat fabric.
@Koyalgudem. Patterned Yarn passing through Reed Frame.
Age is just a number: Ikat producing industry is one of the largest employment trade in Andhra Pradesh, Telangana after agriculture. Women across the age are employed for lots of activities from reeling to tying of yarns to pattern making.
In the traditional Pochampally, Koyalgudem villages, it is only the Padamshali and Devangas communities who make Pochampally in their homes.
For someone like me who is always on stone trails, these textile trails are illuminating and enriching. While we cannot take the trail back with us, but with these pictures and stories we consume such Arts and Crafts stories through Screens later; hence keeping The Dying Professions Alive.
